Deep Red Bells

Dollhouse Episode 1.6: DeWitt Analysis

2010-06-11T08:18:00.001-07:00

To see all the DeWitt clothing posts, click here.

Resuming my analysis of Adele DeWitt's outfits, here's episode 6 of Season One (now that I have two full seasons of Dollhouse to go through).

In this episode, DeWitt wears three outfits: a cowl-necked black top with a bright blue pencil skirt; a muted grey jersey wrap dress; and a floral chiffon top with a black pencil skirt.

This was the best full-length shot of this outfit, though it's through the blinds of DeWitt's office. The royal blue skirt has wide bands of black around the waist, almost like a skirt yoke. The top is short-sleeved with a heavy, draped cowl. It also has a dangerously low back (at least, for an office outfit!) and ties with a bow:

Here's a shot that shows the cowl's drapery; the folds fall right into the sleeves.

And another face-on shot:

The black markings on the yoke of the skirt are obscured here, but it appears to be a geometric pattern. DeWitt is also wearing one of her typically understated necklaces.

The second outfit is a very pale grey, almost mauve, jersey wrap-dress. I wish the image were bigger, but she was mostly in close-ups while she was wearing this outfit:

The dress is fairly clingy with a mid-waist tie-belt. Interestingly, the wrap of the bodice isn't a typical diagonal cut -- the overlap curves from the left shoulder across the bust, covering the right breast as well (rather than having the curve come between the breasts, which is much more common for v-cut wrap dresses and tops). This close-up of the bodice shows the cut better:

In the next image, it's clear just how sparsely the dress is cut in the back:

and this shot shows the sleeve length -- the sleeves come nearly to her wrists, but they are a little long to be truly bracelet-length:

The final outfit is similar to ensembles DeWitt has already worn, with a translucent chiffon blouse (probably silk) and a basic black pencil skirt:

She pairs it with yet another simple gold necklace and a narrow black belt. The ruffles at the armsyces also continue along the back of the arm:

A Return!

2010-06-11T07:54:00.000-07:00

So, this blog dedicated to fashion and the fabulous Ms. DeWitt has been abandoned until recently. Now that I own both Seasons 1 and 2 of Dollhouse on iTunes, I can make high-quality screencaps. Analysis of Ms. DeWitt's outfits will resume shortly.

Dollhouse Episode 5: DeWitt analysis

2009-04-10T04:27:00.000-07:00

To see all the DeWitt clothing posts, click here.

In episode 5, DeWitt wears two very different outfits.

The first is a bright, canary-yellow sweater with elbow-length sleeves and a cross-over neckline border, worn over a tweed pencil skirt. The pencil skirt is not a new look for DeWitt, but the colour of the sweater is much brighter than the usual muted tones she favours.

You don't want to make her angry.

Here's a good view of the sleeve length:

Full length:

The second is her go-to black pencil skirt with a very interesting forest-green blouse, made in a silky, drapey fabric. It has a slightly cowled neckline and a fascinating construction for the sleeves: the material overlaps from the shoulder seam to the wrist.

From the back:

Dollhouse Episode 4: DeWitt analysis

2009-04-10T04:21:00.000-07:00

To see all the DeWitt clothing posts, click here.

Here's episode 4. Unlike the previous episodes, DeWitt wears only one outfit: a dark navy pencil skirt in a slightly tweedy fabric and a sheer blouse over a camisole. Her hair worn in curls piled on her head, a very pretty look. Since she generally wears her hair down, it's a sharp change.

The yoke of the blouse is lovely:

And here is a view from the back:

Dollhouse Episode 3: DeWitt analysis

2009-03-21T09:20:00.000-07:00

Onward to the third episode!

The first outfit is not my favourite by a long stretch -- I don't really care for animal prints or too much khaki, so this combination is not something I'd go for -- though the obi belt look would be great in a different print.

However! Please note that she's wearing Christian Louboutin shoes, a very famous brand known for its trademark red soles:

The second is an un-characteristically busy floral patterned dress, worn with some fabulous black heels.

It reminds me a bit of an Easter dress, actually.

The third outfit is the most edgy and the one I'm most likely to reproduce -- a leather pencil skirt with a piratical flouncy blouse:

I would probably downgrade the ruffled collar a bit...

Dollhouse Episode 2: DeWitt analysis

2009-03-11T04:00:00.000-07:00

Here is the second part of the series on DeWitt's costumes in Dollhouse. In this episode, we see four different outfits, two of which occur in a flashback. The flashback is filmed with a bright haze, so the screenshots didn't come out as well.

The first outfit: a jewel-tone jersey dress with a cross-over bodice, worn with pulled-back hair and another small gold necklace:

A full-length view -- note the gathering at the bustline like the burgundy dress from the first episode:

I like this dress a lot, but if I were to re-create it, I would make the neckline a teensy bit higher (more work appropriate) and length the sleeves to wrist-length. I don't do well with 3/4 length sleeves.

The second outfit is a dress with a cross-over top. I didn't get any screenshots of the full length, but it's a simple shape:

The third is from the flashback. It's a dark navy pencil skirt worn with ANOTHER cross-over top, also sleeveless, but in a brighter blue. Were I to re-create this look, I would probably choose either the exact same colour for the top and skirt or two strongly contrasting colours. The almost-the-same colour combination does not appeal to me.

Here is a full-length view:

A close-up for the bodice:

And an even-closer-up view of the necklace, which I love:

The fourth outfit is much less vibrant than the others, but still very classy.

The blouse is fantastic -- and there's yet another gold necklace:

And here's a full-length view. Love those heels!

Dollhouse Episode 1: DeWitt analysis

2009-03-10T02:35:00.000-07:00

This is the first post in a series on Ms. DeWitt's costuming in the show Dollhouse.

Here is the first glimpse we get of Ms. DeWitt. The full-length shots were not so great, but she is wearing a matching pencil skirt. I don't usually like the skirt-and-blazer suit look, but it works with her more casual shirt. Also note the small gold necklace, an accessory style that she keeps wearing.

And here we have the second outfit from the episode -- the standard pencil skirt with blouse. I can't say I'm crazy about the print on the blouse, but I do think I need to sew a black pencil skirt for my work wardrobe. Also note the basic black heel, which she wears frequently.

Her third outfit from the episode is my favourite -- a burgundy jersey dress. The draping at the front is excellent.

And here is a better shot of the front draping (and another small gold necklace):

A view of the back -- you can see that it ties:

Coming soon: episode 2!

A New Source of Fashion Inspiration

2009-03-10T02:01:00.000-07:00

Since I am a big fan of Joss Whedon, I have started watching his new series Dollhouse. It's been fantastic so far not only for the great action sequence and suspense, but also for the discovery of a new source of clothing ideas.

Ms. DeWitt, played with steely British decorum by Olivia Williams, works as the boss of the illegal organization "Dollhouse." I will be examining her wardrobe episode by episode over the next few days. Four episodes have already aired, but I will contine to document her clothes after each episode.

Her style is highly consistent and fits into the classy, slightly retro mold that I'm aiming for. It's not as intense as the women in Mad Men, but has a similar air. She has yet to wear pants; she favours pencils skirts with wide waistbands that come above the natural waistline; she always wears hose and fantastic heels; and she wears small and delicate gold necklaces. When not wearing a blouse and pencil skirt combination, she wears beautifully styled jersey dresses.

Besides her clothing, I adore her hair -- dark brown, a bit past shoulder length, in loose waves. She wears it down, in a low ponytail, or piled at the back of her head.

While I wouldn't wear everything she's sported so far (no thanks to anything animal print, even in small doses), I'm exciting about getting ideas for new basics from her wardrobe. I believe she's worn the same khaki pencil skirt in two different episodes, which makes her character seem more real to me (since the average human cannot wear a completely difference outfit every day to the office).

Starting with episode 1, I'll be sharing screenshots and analysis. For those of you also following the show, no need to worry about spoilers -- I am anti-spoiler sharing and will not be discussing plot details.

Freedom!

2009-02-21T02:30:00.000-08:00

Until last week, I wore six rings all the time, every day -- four on my right hand, two on my left. Then I was looking at my left hand in class (distracted? me? never!) and realized that the cameo ring would look nicer if it didn't have another ring nearby to distract the eye. I'd been approaching my rings as "all the time" jewelry but I realized that I could wear them in turns and swap them out.

Amazing eh? Here I was thinking that buying a ring meant making a life-long commitment to constantly wear it, but that is clearly false. So right now I am wearing only three rings, one on my left hand, two on my right. I feel liberated! Before I wouldn't get new rings very often because "oh, I already have a ring that I wear on my left index finger." Now I can get weird little rings just for parties and whatnot.

An Ode and Some Recent Realizations

2009-02-05T03:39:00.000-08:00

These days, I amass my wardrobe from a variety of sources -- basic clothing shops like Old Navy and Target (a.k.a. the affordable sorts of stores), thrifting, and making things myself. However, if I were placed under a dreadful curse where I could only ever buy clothes from one location, I would immediately choose Anthropologie and hope that the curse came with a unlimited budget.

Anthro's pieces are light, feminine, and well-constructed. I do have a few things that I found on clearance (an excellent short-sleeved brown jacket, a basic white tee with a lace-edged neckline) and some that were handed down to me from a friend (the world's best turquoise contra skirt). Still, the prices are rarely in my ideal range.

But a I can dream and still read everything about Anthro -- including this recent newsletter about a sweater decorating party (hat tip: Cam).

I loved leafing through the most recent catalog (thoughtfully included in a recent care package) and tearing out some sheets for my inspiration notebook. The Carniolan Primrose dress caught my eye for several reasons: it's long, high-waisted, short-sleeved, floral, and has a vaguely Regency air about it. And yet, I realize that it would be an unwise purchase because I would end up looking like a Victorian pouf footstool.

The issue is that I am 5'2", and therefore long floral dresses with few tailored details make me look rather shapeless and frumpy. I could wear the dress at home to water herbs in and feed my pretend cats, but wearing it outside of the house might indicate that I'd already descended into Crazy Bag Lady territory. Alas! It's tough to come to grips with the fact that the bohemian/romantic look I enjoy has to be reigned in, or at least tightened up slightly, for use in the professional world. If I were a 6'3" supermodel, I could probably get away with long and flowy with less difficulty.

As it is, I'm going to focus on a few things for my future wardrobe, especially for work this summer:
1. More structured jackets -- NOT blazers, but rather jackets with shape that can keep a loose top and full skirt from looking too dainty.

2. Skirts that hit right below the knee -- This is a great length for shorties since it's neither a skimpy mini nor a maxi ankle-length skirt. I really don't like skirts that hit above the knee, even just above, so below the knee length is my new ideal (rather than the previously mentioned ankle-length).

3. Heels -- I tend toward flats because wearing heels is less comfortable and the ones I've had in the past don't stay on all that well. So for the summer, I will look for heels that are relatively comfortable and that stay on my feet (usually a sizing issue). Oddly enough, I only like heels that are at least 2" high, so I don't have a problem with wearing very high heels.

4. Better jewelry -- It's time to stop buying dorky earrings at Claire's even if mini robots are adorable. I don't have that many earrings of good quality, so I'm planning to focus on nicer classic pieces that will last a while. Fortunately, I've inherited some very classy pearl necklaces, which I will rock this summer.

I'd love to hear about your recent wardrobe epiphanies!

Search and Rescue

2009-01-11T06:43:00.000-08:00

Last week, I was browsing the thrift shop on my street when I came across something fairly extraordinary.

One of the nice things about being a crafty person is that you can easily recognize something handcrafted, and vice versa, recognize something clearly made by a machine. It didn't take long before I realized that this sweater was a handknit. There were several clues: it had neither a tag nor a place where a tag had been cut out; the sleeves and sides were mattress-seamed; the top edge of the collar was tacked down, making a fold; the back seam of the collar was fairly visible; there was a small rip in the seam on one of the sleeves (not in the knitted pieces, just in the joining); and I recognized the cast-on. Store-made sweaters have distinctive edges on the hems and cuffs, not clear cast-ons.

I knit an Aran sweater myself last year. It was a hard slog -- a fun time, to be sure, but quite difficult -- so I can't imagine anyone relinquishing a handknit Aran to the thrift store donation pile. In the end, I decided that it was a gift and the recipient either didn't like it or didn't want it anymore. Call me biased, but I simply cannot imagine the original knitter giving it up to a shop with nary a thought.

It's a fabulous sweater, roomy and warm. Like the Aran I knit last year, it's very unflattering to wear -- rather like sporting a comforter. I'm sure it would look much better on me if I were a man and 6'5". Still, I knew I had to have it, to make amends with the original knitter, and because I left my own Aran at home.

Here are some detail shots as well:

N.B. Of course I do not store my knitwear on hangers. I fold up my sweaters! Or I at least ball them up gently in drawers. I know that storing sweaters on hangers (except for those fancy padded kinds) will kill the shoulders.

A Return

2009-01-06T05:52:00.000-08:00

Poor neglected little clothing blog. Something happened, known in most cultures as "the end of the semester and the part where you go on vacation," and along the way, Deep Red Bells lost out.

However! One of my goals (not a resolution, as I am not doing resolutions this year) is to shift my wardrobe to a greater proportion of used/thrifted clothing plus handmade goods -- for the savings, and for the environment. So, hopefully I will able to put together some posts about that.

I did slip up in Brussels where I bought a lovely white lace parasol. It's not exactly seasonal right now (if I carried it outside, it would blend in perfectly with the snow!) but I'm very excited about using it when spring arrives, if it ever does. Pics will be forthcoming once I find a good location.

Fly Away

2008-11-26T03:28:00.000-08:00

When I went to the antique shop to buy ribbon and lace, I couldn't help looking at the other pretties around me. Inside a drawer full of feather arrangements and little felt flowers, I found two wing-like clusters that I knew would be beautiful with some tweaking. One is made of royal blue and deep plum and red feathers, and the other is made of the palest light blue.

The cuffs didn't take up all the lace that I bought, but there isn't enough for a new set of cuffs or anything fairly extensive. Then I looked at the light blue feathers and decided that white lace was just the ticket.

Behold, a new decoration!

I simply wrapped a bit of lace around the base and tacked it down. The feathers are glued (very weakly) to a bit of felt, so I had something to sew it on. In the picture, I don't have it attached to my dress at all -- but I think it would look lovely with a large pearl-headed pin keeping it in place.

In Search of Victorian Elegance

2008-11-23T11:44:00.000-08:00

Recently I decided that my newly acquired winter coat needed to be revamped. It's lovely, but I thought it could do with a certain additional air of finesse.

After traipsing to my new favourite antique shop and picking up some lace and green silk velvet ribbon, I also found a lovely little fur collar at my local thrift store (6 euros!) and decided to add ties to it while I was in the sewing mood.

While I sewed the cuffs on securely, I did not cement them on, with the intention that I could re-use the ribbon and lace elsewhere as needed or simply replace the cuffs next year.

I'd love to do some sort of melodramatic photoshoot in Pere-Lachaise to fully showcase the new look, but I'm afraid I don't have any acquaintances here who would be willing to follow me around a cemetery. So, for now, a few basic shots will have to do.

Here the cuffs are pinned and ready!

And here I'm sewing the first cuff. You can see that I arranged it so that the cuff doesn't actually meet at the backseam:

A finished cuff! This picture does a good job of showing the sheen of the ribbon:

Here's the whole coat, plus the collar and its new ribbon ties:

And a look at the collar:

I'm really pleased with these embellishments...and even more excited about taking the coat out on the town!

Of Regency Elegance

2008-11-15T00:08:00.000-08:00

Nine years ago, the only eras that I liked were the Victorian Era (but mostly the 1850s and 1850s) and the Middle Ages. Anything from 1900-on was too modern and other periods just didn't appeal to me.

Then I discovered Jane Austen, and a whole new world of costume history opened up to me. I grew to love the long white ballgowns, with trains tacked on a sleeve or draped over an arm. The dark-coloured spencers in the 1995 BBC Pride & Prejudice, Marianne's half-robe in Sense & Sensibility (with Emma Thompson and Kate Winslet), even Mr. Tilney's witty banter about the economy of buying muslin in Northanger Abbey.

Back in the day, when I decided I needed a deep-red Regency dress to see the Opera (La Boheme), I began some internet searching to find the best pattern. Simplicity and other Big-Four patterns were ruled out quickly, as I struggled to imagine a real Regency lady having a zipper in the back of her dress. Several sources, however, soon led me to the fantastic Sense & Sensibility Patterns website where I found Mrs. Jennie Chancey's famous Regency Gown pattern. Since I first found her patterns, her line has expanded, with Regency undergarments, new neckline options, and an all-new dress pattern (The Elegant Lady's Closet).

Now I'm quite excited as Mrs. Chancey recently made a new announcement: she is converting her patterns to PDFs, for sale as ePatterns! This is great news especially over here, as I won't need to pay for international shipping. The patterns can just be printed and assembled. I've been thinking about sewing a new gown for an excursion to Bath (maybe something white?) so this news came at just the right time.

More Fairy Tales

2008-11-14T14:38:00.000-08:00

Ah, this photoshoot from Fiona Quinn is so beautiful:

Dark Tales

I love fairy tale re-tellings and re-imaginings, and this shoot is quite lovely.

Advice Tuesday: Wearing Boots

2008-11-11T00:27:00.000-08:00

I rather like when blogs have certain features for days of the week (though not necessarily a set pattern that they must follow for every day) so I've decided to start an "Advice Tuesday" where readers can write in with fashion dilemmas, queries, and quests.

Question from an intrepid reader: What do you think of these boots? Can I wear them with skinny jeans? How about a mini skirt? Tights? Black or brown? And how about mixing browns and blacks: is that acceptable or not?

[image from DSW.com]

Answer: Dear intrepid reader,
I will admit that I was struck with fear when I followed the link to check out the boots. The page did not load for a few seconds and all I could see was the name: "White Mountain Cadonia Suede Boot." Immediately I recalled one of the more unfortunate fashion choices of my high school years, when I purchased a pair of blindingly white, vaguely go-go-esque boots despite the fact that I never wear anything that could possibly coordinate with white boots, and despite the fact that they were so cheap that they began at once to have ugly black scuff marks on the toe.

But I digress. I was relieved to discovered that the name refered to "White Mountain" rather than Mountain Boots that were white. Instead, these boots are a classy upper-calf height boot with a scrunched upper portion (trendy but not overly so), a narrow 3-inch heel, and a gradually pointed toe.

The nubuck leather has a slight velvety look, which is particularly great for fall. These boots are an excellent pair because while they are brown leather and scrunched, they avoid looking like part of a Robin Hood costume because of the elegant heel and pointed toe. Unlike a certain brand of sheepskin-lined, slipper-like boots, these are not clomping-around-the-house shoes. These boots would look fabulous with a just-mid-calf length plaid skirt and an Aran sweater, or a navy pencil skirt and a white blouse. While these boots fit into trends for this fall season, they would be a good investment piece as they will not look out of place in future seasons.

Now on to the additional questions. I find the boots-over-skinny-jeans look to be quite excellent. It's important to have jeans that are narrow enough to fit inside the boots without blousing over (the breeches look should be attempted only with special training). I would go for a subtle dark wash. White jeans tucked into brown boots should never be attempted.

As for a mini skirt, it depends on how you define mini skirt. If "mini skirt" means ending up at upper thigh, forget it (boots and mini skirts generally give the impression "woman of dubious reputation"). If it's mid-to-lower-thigh, you could get away with it if you were wearing tights underneath and if your top provided enough coverage. No tank tops with that combination -- rather, a nice button down or classy tee.

Tights would be great with these boots. As brown and blue are complementary colours (tecnically, it's orange and blue that are complementary, but brown and blue work just as well), try a rich navy or even a brighter blue. As for black or brown, here we enter the next question.

One of fashion's most ponderous adages is the "never mix brown and black" rule. This can be quite limiting, and frankly, irritating. My take on the brown and black mixing is go ahead, but only if the difference in colour is apparent. The key is to avoid looking like you got dressed in the dark and put on your navy tights and black minidress because you couldn't see properly. If the navy tights are clearly blue, and the black minidress is clearly black, then go for it!

For these boots, I would lean toward black tights. Unless you can find tights that are the exact shade of the boots, there is going to be some discrepancy between the colours. Black tights against that brown will provide a nice contrast, and no one will think that you are simply colour-blind for mixing those two colours. Even if you did miraculously find brown tights that are the exact shade of the boots, you'd end up with the "mono-coloured leg" look, which may be slimming, but it's also dull.

Intrepid reader, I hope these ramblings answered your questions!

Troubles? Queries? Wondering what Brits means when they say suspenders? Write in your questions to morrow [dot] caroline [the @ symbol] gmail [dot] com. The address is funkified to foil spambots, of course. I look forward to reading your questions!

Ravens and masks

2008-11-10T10:10:00.000-08:00

Autumn always makes my slightly Goth tendencies come out in full force. While I've never been one to deck out in full gear, eyeliner and tears included, slight elements do appeal.

Through some trawling, I found this brilliant video from Jill Tracy that elegantly captures the right fall spirit.

Silhouettes, castles, and cemeteries aside (all things I find fascinating), one part of the video that enjoyed most was the montage of half-masks. Besides all my imaginings of hosting a masquerade (a dream that will never die), there is an air of mystery and deception that comes with a simple black half-mask (like Zorro, for example). The lovely Emily Martin, of Some Girls Wander, recently paired a black mask with a red dress and it turned out splendidly. While I've read that in the 17th century, some ladies wore black masks on the street as a fashion accessory, I'm not sure how that would be received in a French town in the 21st century. Then again, the blasé attitudes toward people covered in mud might bode well for their tolerance of any other anomalies in appearance.

Welcome to my clothing blog!

2008-11-10T03:01:00.000-08:00

Greetings! I've started this new blog as a place to examine, discuss, dissect, observe, and comment on clothing. I say "clothing" rather than "fashion" because I don't anticipate spending much time commenting on haute couture, but rather my own clothes, other people's everyday clothes, and vintage/used garments.

Many of the blogs I read are focused on fashion (see the sidebar for my favourites) and I love to turn to them for inspiration or ideas. Thus, I decided to create a home for my reflections and reactions to their outfits and other things I discover.

The blog title comes from the name of one of my favourite songs by Neko Case. I'm inspired also by music -- from the lyrics and the feel of the music -- so it seemed fitting to incorporate that into the name of the blog.

I hope you enjoy reading!